• 15Mar

    A Wine Lover’s View of Austria

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    Whenever I used to think of Austria, visions of snow-capped Alps Mountains and Julie Andrews dancing and singing across the countryside with the Von Trapp Family came to mind.  That movie was released in 1965 – over 50 years ago! These days I have quite different visions of Austria.  Now I picture vineyards, and thoughts of some of the most exciting and racy wines made in Europe come to my mind!  Here are some quick facts for wine lovers to know about Austrian wine:

    • Austria is about the size of Maine and only 32% of it is below 1640 feet.
    • Grapes have been planted there since the 4th century BC.
    • Austria ranks 13th among wine producing countries worldwide.
    • 22,000 farmers grow grapes and 6,500 wineries make and bottle wine.
    • 60% of Austrian wine produced is white (primarily dry white and sweet wines); however there are some very good reds produced.
    • Austria has 19 wine regions with 4 regions being the most prominent.
    • There are 35 grape varieties planted.
    • Austria has some of the strictest wine laws in Europe with precise requirements for every wine.
    • A DAC– protected Austrian declaration of origin – was instituted in 2001.

    The Grapes and Wines of Austria

    There are thirty five grape varieties in Austria, some of which are indigenous and found only in Austria. Here are some of the most familiar. The most important wines are in bold print.

    WHITES

    • Furmint – Commonly used in sweet wines of Burgenland.
    • Gruner Veltliner – Burgenland’s most important grape in quality and acreage planted; it can be dry or sweet.
    • Chardonnay or Morillon – A minor grape in Austria.
    • Muskateller or Gelber Muskateller – The same as Muscat Blanc varietal; extremely fragrant and lush.
    • Neuburger – A simple workhorse grape.
    • Riesling – A major grape even though there is not a lot of it in Austria; it can be dry or sweet. Usually more powerful than German Rieslings and often considered the country’s greatest grape. Una
    • Sämling – A minor grape sometimes used for making eiswein. It’s a cross between Riesling and another minor grape.
    • Sauvignon Blanc – Not widely planted but makes high quality exotically smoky and grassy wines.
    • Traminer or Savagnin – An aromatic ancestor of Gewürztraminer.
    • Weissburgunder – A major grape also known as Pinot Blanc; makes dry wines ranging from creamy to racy. Also makes sweet wines.
    • Welschriesling – Another major grape not even related to Riesling! It is named Grasevina in Croatia and makes simple dry wines as well as late-harvest botrytized sweet wines.

    REDS

    • Blauburgunder – We know it as Pinot Noir; produces variable quality pinots in Austria more on the light side with raspberry overtones.
    • Blaufränkisch – A major grape also known as Lemberger. It makes bold, spicy and complex wines.
    • Cabernet Sauvignon – Can make good wine in Austria with the right vineyard and winemaker.
    • Laurent – Makes simple, hearty fruity wines.
    • Zweigelt – Its parents are Blaufränkisch and St. Laurent, and it can remind you of California Zinfandel: inky, fruity and briary.

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    Austrian Wine Regions You Should Know

    There are nineteen Austrian wine regions. Four of them are of most importance – Lower Austria, Burgenland, Styria and Vienna.

    LOWER AUSTRIA – Niederosterriech

    • Lower Austria is the most important region in terms of size and reputation of high-quality wine.
    • It is actually in the northeast corner of the country along the Slovakian border and the lower part of the Danube River.
    • Lower Austria is best known for crisp white wines made from Gruner Veltliner and Riesling.
    • Eight wine districts make up Lower Austria.
      • Wachau (va-COW) is the smallest district and is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Whites from Wachau are unmatched in clarity of flavor, elegance and balance. It is also the only place in Austria where you will find these three terms:
        • Steinfelder – Natural unchaptalized wines with no more than 11.5% alcohol; chaptalization is the addition of sugar to unfermented grapes in order to increase the alcohol content.
        • Federspiel – Natural unchaptalized wines with 11.5 – 12.5% alcohol.
        • Smaragd – The most ripe and considered the best; 12.5% or higher.
      • Kremstal is also a DAC (more about DACs to follow) – Gruner Veltliner and Riesling are the wines here.
      • Kamptal – and a DAC – Gruner Veltliner and Riesling are the wines here too.
      • Wagram – Gruner veltliner produced here.
      • Weinviertel – another DAC – Gruner is the wine you will find here.
      • Carnumtum – Zweigelt and Blaufrӓnkisch are found here.
      • Traisental – another DAC – Gruner and Riesling here.
      • Thermenregion – Two rare whites are found here: Rotgipfler and Zierfandler; they are usually blended together and are massively fruity and heavy with spicy orange overtones.

    BURGENLAND

    • Burgenland is the second largest wine region after Lower Austria and is known for opulent sweet wines and some remarkable reds.
    • It borders on Hungary, and Budapest is only 130 miles east.
    • The Neusiedlersee is a lake between northern Burgenland and Hungary which provides the wet air and gentle climate, both perfect conditions for botrytis.
    • Welshriesling, Chardonnay, Traminer and Furmint are some of the grapes used for sweet wines.
    • Blaufränkisch is the foremost red grape here and it can be bold, dark in color, with unusual flavor of raspberries, blueberries and sour cherries, white pepper and minerals. Try to imagine a Cabernet Franc crossed with Syrah crossed with Malbec!
    • The two other local red grapes are Zweigelt, a cross between Blaufränkisch and St. Laurent; and St. Laurent which is a combination of earth, mushrooms and spices somewhat like a Pinot Noir.

    STYRIA (Steiermark)

    • Styria is located in the southeastern corner of Austria and is the country’s second smallest wine region.
    • Sauvignon Blanc is a specialty here as is artisanal pumpkinseed oil, Austria’s answer to extra virgin olive oil.
    • Chardonnay is made in the style of French Chablis (taut and linear instead of fat and buttery); the Sauvignon Blanc is like a good French Sancerre (wild, outdoorsy, herbal and lemony).
    • Wine estates here are usually very small but often have an adjoining restaurant or inn.

    VIENNA (Wien VEEN)

    • Vienna is the only major city in the world that is also a wine region. There are over 1500 acres of vineyards within the Vienna city limits.
    • The western part of the city produces very good Riesling, Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc due to its mineral-rich limestone soils. The southern part of the city has darker, heavier soils making for fuller bodied whites plus Zweigelt and other reds.
    • Viticulture in the city led to the establishment of heurigen which are part winery, part wine bar, and part giant cafe. There are heurigen all over Austria, but the oldest and most infamous are in Vienna.

    The DACs

    Districtus Austriae Controllatus were instituted in 2001 by the Ministry of Agriculture.  The appellation and the letters DAC must be listed on the wine label, but usually the grape variety does not.  This can create a problem unless you know what variety is produced in that DAC.  There are currently nine DACs.

    In the Lower Austria Region:

    • Weinviertel DAC – Weinviertel was the first DAC. Gruner Veltliner is the only grape allowed in the bottle.
    • Traisental DAC – Gruner Veltliner or Riesling are allowed.
    • Kremstal DAC – Gruner Veltliner or Riesling are allowed.
    • Kamptal DAC – Gruner Veltliner or Riesling are allowed.      .

    In the Vienna Region:

    • Wiener Gemischter Satz DAC – At least 3 high-quality white wine grapes must be used, and the leading one can’t be more than 50% of the blend

    In the Burgenland Region:

    • Eisenberg DAC – Blaufränkisch is allowed.
    • Mittelburgenland DAC – Blaufränkisch is allowed.
    • Neusiedlersee DAC – Zweigelt or Zweigelt with other indigenous reds are allowed if the wine is considered a reserve.
    • Leithhaberg DAC – Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, Gruner Veltliner and Neuburger are the allowable whites; Blaufränkisch blended with up to 15% St. Laurent, Zweigelt or Pinot Noir for red.

    Sweetness and Ripeness 

    All Austrian dry wines are made from ripe grapes.  The only exception is the designation of ripeness for sweet dessert wines:

    • Beerenauslese (BA) – made from overripe and/or *botrytized grapes.
    • Eiswein – made from overripe grapes that have frozen naturally on the vine.
    • Ausbruch – made from either *botrytized and/or naturally dried grapes; this category is unique to Austria.
    • Trockenbeerenauslese (TBA) – made only in exceptional years from predominantly *botrytized grape bunches and extremely dried, raisin-like grape berries.

    Ripeness is measured in Austria by the KMW or Klosterneuburger Mostwage scale which compares the specific gravity of the must or sugar content to that of water.

    *Botrytis or “noble rot” is a gray fungus that grows on ripe grapes under certain wet and humid conditions.  It shrivels and decays the grapes with concentrated sugars and flavors.  Well-made botrytized wines have a rich, complex honeyed character.

    A Taste of Austria

    The culinary traditions of Austria are some of the most sophisticated and compelling in central Europe.  Here are a few of the most famous traditions:  soup  of many kinds including potato, pumpkin, and wine soup; strudels both savory and sweet; dumplings made from flour, semolina, and bread;  ancient grain breads; pumpkin and pumpkinseed oil (it’s greenish in color, nutty and delicious!); pump oilgoulash, schnitzel, sausages for wurst snacking, desserts and pastries.  Sandwiches in Austria are generally of the open face finger type, and shops selling these little sandwiches are very popular.  Dining options vary from the heuriger, to cafes and coffee house to fine elegant restaurants.  Drinking coffee in a Vienna coffeehouse is more of a life experience than just drinking coffee.  Traditionally one would spend an hour, or several hours and even up to all day.  Note: You may read “An Evening in Austria” posted on my website at www.forkandcorkdivine.com to learn how some Southwest Florida wine and food lovers celebrated Austrian culinary traditions paired with Austrian wines.

    That Famous Glass

    Riedel crystal glassworks were established in Bohemia in 1756.  By 1858 there were eight Riedel glassworks producing glass jewelry, beads and chandelier parts.  In 1873 they began making luxury hollow glass products, and Josef Riedel became known as “The Glass King of the Jizera Mountains”.  Georg Riedel, the 10th generation head of the family’s Austrian crystal company, was a wine connoisseur.  He began designing crystal glasses that enhanced the aroma and flavor of various wine varietals and types of wines.  In the 1990s Georg became famous for his “Riedel Glass Tasting” – the same wine was tasted in various glasses and wine pros were asked to judge the results.  Within a few years, no top winery or restaurant was without them.  Maximilian Riedel is the 11th generation CEO and president who continues to grow the company internationally. glass With the success of Riedel, dozens of other top crystal companies such as Zalto, Spiegelau and Schott Zweisel have developed competitive wine glasses.  There are probably very few experienced winelovers today without at least several Riedels on the shelf for their wine enjoyment!

    Note from the author:  I gathered this information when recently planning and preparing an Austrian wine dinner in our home.  My sources were primarily Karen MacNeil’s “The Wine Bible”, various internet websites about Austrian culture and wines, the websites of wines we tasted at our home wine dinner and information presented by Bernhard Weidinger of Tina’s Cafe and Bakery Vienna where we made our rediscovery of Austrian wines.  Hopefully it will entice someone who is unfamiliar with Austrian wines with the desire to try some.

    LR 3.15.17

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  • 18Oct

    South American Wine Varietals: A Quick Overview

    When the conversation turns to South American wine, it usually sounds as if there are only two countries on the continent: Argentina and Chile.  Malbec put Argentina on the world wine map and 98% of the world Carmenere supply comes from Chile. While these countries have attracted attention for good reason, their neighbors to the north are worth talking about too. Brazil, Uruguay and Peru are producing fine and exciting wine still in its infancy and their wines are not mass-marketed, these regions are worth getting to know now, before the inevitable explosion of interest.

    Wine Varietals to Know

    Malbec, Argentina

    Malbec is originally from France, particularly the Cahors area.  The grape has poor resistance to weather and pests so never became a top varietal in France even though it is one of the six varietals permitted in a French red Bordeaux blend.  A Frenchman planted it in Mendoza in 1868 where it is now widely planted.  Argentina has reinvigorated the world’s interest in Malbec, making this French blending grape the top level of a main attraction in Argentina.  It is now widely accepted as a grape for “regular” people; however, it comes in a range of winemaking styles making it a wine for “all” people!

    1. Now there are OLD VINE Malbecs some which have been there for over a century. These vines make wild and floral wine with silky-smooth tannins and fresh acidity. They are also often made into a field blend of other local old vine varietals.
    2. FRUITY EVERYDAY Malbec can be lush and concentrated easy drinking at much easier price points. Many of these have a bit of oak-aging structure. These go for $10 and up.
    3. TOP DOLLAR TOP UCO Malbecs are the very top level Malbecs and are from the Uco Valley in Mendoza, Argentina. These are world class wines and can cost over $50.

    Carmenere, Chile

    Carmenere is another French grape that found its way across the ocean and is now widely grown in Chile.  Actually it was mistaken brought to Chile as Merlot where it grew all over the country until it discovered in 1994 that it was actually the “lost grape” Carmenere from France.  Unfortunately consumers didn’t buy it due to quality of the finished product.  The quality is now better than it was 5 or 6 years ago resulting in a Carmenere revival.  Well-made Carmenere should be easy to drink with fleshy fruit and herbal spice, styles ranging from plummy and rich with sweeter oak aging to fresher with wild herb and bell pepper notes.  Chile now makes 98% of the world’s Carmenere.

    Bonarda, Argentina

    Prior to the Malbec boom, Bonarda was the most widely planted red grape varietal in Argentina.  Often seen as an alternative to Malbec, it is vinified in the same way.

    1. TRADITIONAL Bonarda wines are jammy and fruit-forward.
    2. FRESH FLIRTY Bonarda has a shorter maceration and some whole cluster carbonic maceration making them lighter and fruitier.
    3. SERIOUS Bonarda from the Uco Valley skip the oak, are aged in cement eggs and result in darker fruit and floral Bonarda with finesse.

    Torrontέs, Argentina

    Torrontes is a white grape varietal native to South America and is now the “Queen of Argentina”.  It is a cross between Pais (Criolla) and Muscat.  Torrontes trademark traits are floral, fruity, tropical on the nose but bone dry and sometimes a little bitter in the mouth.

    País (Criolla), Chile

    Pais or Criolla was one of the first grapes to be planted in the Americas (“Mission” in the US) and was the most widely planted grape in South America.  The old vines eventually were condemned to table wine and largely forgotten.  In the last few years some Chilean winemakers have rediscovered it and are making some interesting wines from it.

    1. RUSTIC Pais are usually small production using natural production methods and are earthy with rustic fruit flavors and sometimes floral notes.
    2. MODERN MEAUJOLOAIS-STYLE Pais uses carbonic maceration to capture fresh fruit flavors and light crisp finish. There is also some sparkling pink Pais made in traditional Champenoise method.

    Tannat, Uruguay

    Tannat makes a dark dry red wine with high acidity and high tannins, and has now put Uruguay on the winemaking map.  The best tannat comes from a long time in an oak barrel followed by long time in the bottle.  Many Uruguayan winemakers blend it with Merlot and even Pinot Noir.

    Carignan (Cariñena), Chile

    This grape was originally planted to add to the Pais but the old vines now make aromatic red-fruit driven wines with spicy notes and fresh acidity. It is lean and fresh with great acidic structure making it an excellent BBQ wine.

    Cabernet Franc, Argentina and Chile

    Not to be left out of the worldwide resurgence of Cabernet Franc, both Argentina and Chile are now producing some excellent cab francs.

    Pinot Noir, Argentina and Chile

    Most of the usual varietals can be found somewhere in Argentina and Chile: Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, etc., but one that has been known to grow well only in a few parts of the world is now growing with good results in both Argentina and Chile -– Pinot Noir!   Patagonia in particular is producing some excellent pinots.  Quite notable is Chacra Barda Pinot Noir that is grown and produced by Piero Incisa della Rocchetta, nephew of Sassicaia producer Nicolo Rocchetta on his Bolgheri estate Tenuta San Guido.  There are many other famous winemakers from other continents looking for new frontiers and challenges now making great wine in South America; just a few are Chateau Lafitte-Rothchild, Alexandra Marnier Lapostolle, Errazuriz-Mondavi creation of Sena, Paul Hobbs from California.

    South American Countries to Know Now

    Argentina

    Argentina is the world’s fifth largest wine producers. It has eight principal wine regions reaching from the Andes Mountains to the Patagonia pampas. Mendoza dominates, producing over 70% of Argentina’s wines. It has been referred to as the Napa Valley of 30 years ago. The Uco Valley is one of the best known wine regions of Mendoza.

    The Argentinian climate is continental, with large temperature swings between day and night, and four full seasons offering hot summers and cold winters. Elevation is also a key factor influencing wine quality. There are high mountains, lush forests, plains and deserts. Winemaking regions here are referred to as “oases” since they develop amidst arid dry regions.  Wines here typically have intense colors, deep aromas, and a broad range of flavors.  White varieties best known are Torrontés, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Grigio while red varieties include Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Bonarda, Syrah, Tempranillo and Pinot Noir.

    Wine sales peaked back in 2012, exports fell for the next three years, but following last years change in government with goals for eliminating a hefty wine export duty, the wine industry is once again looking more promising.

    Chile

    The country of Chile averages just 110 miles in width, so you’re never far from the mountains or the ocean.  The wine growing area spans 800+ miles and is divided into 14 regions.  75% of the wine-producing vineyards grow red grapes.  One-third of the grape production is Cabernet Sauvignon.  Maipo, Colchagua, Aconcagua and Rapel Valley are the names to know for cab.  Chile’s proprietary grape, Carmenere, is widely grown in Maipo, Aconcagua, Cachapoal and Colchaqua. The middle part of Chile is the heartland and home to Chile’s best-known wines and produces 90% of its exports. The southern part of Chile is drastically different from the rest of its wine regions.  It rains here and has now been found to be a classic Chardonnay and Pinot Noir producing regions. No longer is Chile just a producer of “value” wine!

    Up-and-Coming South American Winemaking Countries

    Brazil

    The Portuguese began growing grapes in Brazil in the 1600s. Viticulture was of little importance, however, until Italian immigrant farmers settled there toward the end of the 19th century. Migrating to the southern state of Rio Grande do Sul, they planted native Italian grapes alongside other crops. Commercial vineyards in Brazil grew slowly owing to sparse local consumption and a lack of government interest, but in the last 25 years descendants of the original settlers have begun to create commercial wineries. Today there are six main wine making regions with approximately 150 wineries producing fine wines.  There are about 1,100 additional wineries mainly located on small farms.  Only 20 or so producers have regular business in the US, UK or the rest of Europe.  For example, Cave Geisse winery is making some highly acclaimed sparkling wines that unfortunately can only be purchased from the UK.

    Uruguay

    Uruguay is the fourth-largest wine producer in South America. Immigrants came here mainly from Italy, Spain, France and the Basque region. As in Brazil, Uruguay’s wine industry went through sweeping changes in the 1980s, ushering in the modern, quality-driven trade seen today. The Tannat grape has become the center of Uruguay’s viticulture. Native to the southwest of France and brought here by the French Basques, Tannat thrives in Uruguay’s soil. Although it’s a naturally tannic and astringent grape, the warmer climate of this region softens the hard edges, creating a dark, balanced, full-bodied wine bursting with flavor.

    Peru

    Viticulture in Peru predates Brazil’s and Uruguay’s. As immigrants were just beginning to plant Vinifera grapes in neighboring countries, the phylloxera louse was devastating Peru’s 300-year-old vines. Today most of Peru’s grape acreage lies in the province of Ica and supports the production of pisco, an aromatic brandy made from Muscat. There is now renewed interest in fine wine, however, and many bodegas are getting serious about it. Tannat does well here, as does Petit Verdot, another underutilized French variety.

    Though most of the wines made in these up-and-coming countries are not yet readily available, the importance of these countries is sure to increase exponentially in the years to come. It is easy to forget that Argentina’s Malbec and Chile’s Carménère were obscure wines just a short time ago. Tannat is poised to become South America’s newest discovery as an international audience is beginning to take notice and talk.  Soon we may all be including tannat on our home wine cellar inventory!

    10.18.16

     

     

     

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